June 21, 2016

Fading Kitten Syndrome - What Is It & What Can You Do

If you’ve been keeping up with our Orphaned Kitten Blog Series you now know the basics of what to do if you find orphaned kittens. You can read Part 1 HERE and Part 2 HERE.

Kittens under 8 weeks old are extremely fragile. Their body temperatures need to stay warmer than you may think and drop very quickly. They are tiny and extremely susceptible to a multitude of illnesses and diseases, and they can become very sick very quickly if they are not eating enough and/or frequently enough.

  

When a kitten becomes frail, lethargic, or sick, this is called “Fading Kitten Syndrome” and it’s extremely life threatening. Kittens can go from great to terrible in a matter of minutes, with no warning, and sometimes for no reason at all. It’s important to recognize the symptoms and know the steps to take if and when you are faced with a fading kitten.

Know The Signs:

  • Lethargy – not getting up, unable to stand or move, limp
  • Cold to the touch – cold ears, cold body, cold feet (especially the bottom of their feet)
  • Unresponsive – very young kittens will still respond to touch and stimulation when they are healthy and thriving
  • Gasping for breath
  • Crying out in a way that seems like the kitten is in pain or struggling
  • Pale Gums – a healthy kitten’s gums should be bright or dark pink – if they turn pale or even white, you need to move fast

The two main causes of FKS are hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and hypothermia (too cold of body temperature) so these are the two areas we focus on when dealing with a fragile kitten.

 

Step One: Get That Kitty Warm Again!

Even though you have provided your kitten with a heat source, you must now apply additional heat for this kitten – remember to never apply a heat source directly to the kitten’s body as this can cause serious burning and even overheating (aren’t kittens complicated?). The best thing you can do in this situation is called a “Burrito Roll.” Take a heating pad, place a blanket or towel over the pad, place the kitten on top of that (with his/her head near the edge) and wrap the kitten up in your double layer “burrito” so that he/she is completely rolled up in the heating pad and blanket. You want to make sure it isn’t too tight so that the kitten can breathe, and that the kittens face is easily accessible for your next step.

If you do not have a heating pad, you can do two things. Keep your dryer running constantly with towels and replace the outer layer towel with a warm dryer towel every 5 minutes (be sure to still keep a blanket or towel in between your warm towel and the kitten) OR you can fill up two large socks with uncooked rice (tying the ends so the rice will not spill out), and warm them in the microwave for 3 minutes. Place a rice filled sock on each side of the kitten with a blanket or towel wrapped around the kitten still) and reheat one sock at a time every 30 minutes. It’s important that you reheat one at a time so the remaining heat from one sock will keep the kitten from cooling completely in that 3-minute time span. It seems short, but it’s enough time to undo all the progress you may have already made.

 

Step Two: Get Kitty’s Blood Sugar Back Up

A cold kitten should not be given food or started on this second step. Once their body is no longer cold to the touch, their ears have warmed up, or the pads of their feet are no longer cold, you can start step two.

Fill a bowl or Tupperware dish with sugar water or a syrup (like maple or agave syrup – you may have to add a tiny bit of water to make it a little more runny). It’s important that this mixture is still very sugary and thick, but runny enough to distribute to the kitten. You can administer this sugary mix in two ways – rubbing it directly on to their gums with your finger, or dropping 3 drops into their mouths with a syringe. If the kitten is unresponsive or not swallowing the mixture, you do not want to try to force it down their throat as this can cause them to aspirate, or choke. Instead, focus on getting the syrup directly on to their gums and tongue/roof of their mouth.

The goal is to apply the syrup to their mouths no more than every 3 minutes. Set a timer to help yourself keep track. If you go over 3 minutes, you may as well not even be administering the sugar. If the kitten is EXTREMELY lethargic, shoot for every minute and a half to three minutes. Again, never wait longer than 3 minutes to reapply the syrup.

 

Prognosis

Generally, it is not recommended to rush the kitten to the vet, as tempting as this may seem, for many reasons. The kitten will continue to drop in body temperature and blood sugar, as you drive them to your vet. It’s more important to raise both their body temperature and blood sugar levels, rather than get them to a vet, who will only follow the same above steps (if the kitten makes it that far). Additionally, even an emergency vet clinic works on a first come, first serve basis, which means you may sit their waiting, when you could instead be at home making this kitten your top priority. The sooner you are able to administer these two steps and focus all of your attention on the kitten, the better chance the kitten has of a successful recovery.

There is no set time for a kitten to recover from FKS. Sometimes you are lucky, and the kitten recovers with 30-60 minutes. Other times, it takes a kitten a few hours to fully recover and be able to stand, move, and eat again. (We should note how important it is that you never try to feed a kitten suffering from FKS. You must ALWAYS wait until the kitten has made a full recovery before offering formula or gruel).

As sad as it is, some kittens do not recover from FKS. Cats generally have such large litters because kittens are so fragile and can pass away so easily. Sometimes the best thing you can do for a fading kitten, is keep him warm and comfortable until he finally does pass. It’s disheartening and extremely sad, but please do not give up on the amazing work you are doing! Many times kittens fade for no fault of yours, or have an illness that is unknown. There are many support groups on social media and through animal rescues where you can find stories and help if you are having a hard time accepting and moving on from the grief of losing a kitten, and we encourage you to do some research and find these groups to help you cope with the loss. Remind yourself that without you, this kitten (and his/her littermates) would probably have never stood a chance at survival, and not only have you given them that, you have shown them love and made their time comfortable.

Thank you for taking on the demanding job of kitten care; it’s exhausting and difficult, but is so rewarding. You’ve done and are doing an amazing and wonderful thing!

 

For additional help, please check out these great, in-depth resources:

Note: Photos used from Best Friends Animal Society, San Antonio Pets Alive!, and Austin Pets Alive! 

Guest Blog by: Sondra Davenport, Neonatal Kitten Expert

Urban Paw is an innovative pet products company providing pets with the best sleep possible. From cat huts, cat cuddlers and cat houses to dog mattresses, dog huts and dog houses, Urban Paw offers long lasting pet beds and stylish pet beds for dogs and cats. Affordable pet beds designed for comfort and style, Urban Paw is dedicated to helping cat rescues and dog rescues raise funds and awareness for animals in need.

June 12, 2016

How Do Cats Like to be Pet

In honor of both National Adopt a Cat Month (June), and Animal Rights Awareness Week (June 12-18), we wanted to post a blog recognizing all of the finicky cats of the world! It's no secret that some cats are riskier to pet than others, and that you should always use caution when attempting to snuggle a new kitty. We broke down the do's and don't's of cat petting to help you be more successful in your attempts. 

An article on vetstreet.com gives a pretty good explanation about why most cats prefer you stay away from the belly rubs. Cats are predators, no doubt, however they are also very aware that they are also prey to many larger animals. Because of this, exposing their bellies allows easy access to their most vital organs. That's a risky move for an animal that's bred with strong survival instincts. Because of this, it's best to take your cues from kitty before diving straight for some belly rubs with a cat you are unfamiliar with. 

So what are some good spots that a majority of cats will enjoy?

  • Base of the chin, where the cat's jawbone connects to their skull - this is good with slight pressure or light scratches, typically in a back and forth motion
  • Back of the ears - this is a common scent marking spot for cats. When a cat rubs his/her head against you (also known as "bunting") they are marking their scent on you and therefore claiming you as theirs. Light scratches or a massage feel great to most kitties in this spot
  • The cheek area, right behind their whiskers - you can switch back and forth between sides or use both hands to give kitty a full little head massage. This is another good scent marking spot on a cat and a back and forth motion will usually illicit some nice purrs
  • Base of the tail - although, we do recommend you read the cat's body language. If they are biting/nibbling at you, meowing strangely or pulling their butt down, they are most likely over stimulated. If they raise their butt in the air, they are asking for more scratches and enjoying the little hip massage
  • A simple neck to tail stroke is usually a safe bet with most cats, especially an unfamiliar feline

So what happens when you and kitty are having a great snuggle session and they "suddenly" lash out at you? It's important to note the quotations used here with the word "suddenly." Most of the time, a cat will give you body language clues that she is no longer enjoying the rub down. These signs can include things like lowered/flattened ears, a twitching or flicking of the tail, raising a paw, or no longer purring. Maybe you've accidentally hit one of their "no-no" spots or the cat has become overstimulated. Regardless, if you face yourself finding your hand in the death grip of cat claws, catster.com has some tips for dealing:

  • Instead of pulling your hand away (which will trigger an attack/predator instinct in the cat) try gently pushing your hand towards the cat. 
  • If the lash out happens on more than one occasion when you are petting a usually okay spot, you may need to take your cat to the vet to make sure something isn't causing him pain
  • Never hit, kick, or yell at a cat - not only can this injure him or her, it will further frighten the cat and can cause a more sever attack, and potentially damage your relationship with kitty or the trust the cat has in people in general

To see more pictures of this sweet silver tabby, check out his Instagram!

Guest Post by: Sondra Davenport, Neonatal Kitten Specialist

Urban Paw is an innovative pet products company providing pets with the best sleep possible. From cat huts, cat cuddlers and cat houses to dog mattresses, dog huts and dog houses, Urban Paw offers long lasting pet beds and stylish pet beds for dogs and cats. Affordable pet beds designed for comfort and style, Urban Paw is dedicated to helping cat rescues and dog rescues raise funds and awareness for animals in need. 

June 05, 2016

Tips for Enjoying the Summer with Your Pet

The summer is a wonderful time for enjoying the great outdoors with your pet. To be able to enjoy your time to the fullest, it's important to keep your pet's safety and how they handle the heat in mind. 

Because you want to make sure your pet is still getting efficient exercise, try to limit walks and rigorous playtime to mornings and evenings when the heat is at it's lowest. Remember that asphalt, sidewalks, and pavement become extremely hot in the heat and can burn your pet's paws so take extra care when choosing times to go on walks. 

Camping, parks, and dog friendly beaches are great ways to take your dog out and about with you and including them in summer fun! Hit up your local farmers' market or try a new pet-friendly restaurant and eat on the patio. Modern Dog Magazine recommends setting up a sprinkler splash zone in your backyard and play fetch with your dog or DIY'ing an agility course for them to try. 

Of course there will be times when you want to have your pets around you outside when the heat is at it's higher points, so you should be aware of the signs of heatstroke (and even overheating) in your cat or dog. The Humane Society lists signs of heatstroke in your pet as: 

  • Rapid heartbeat and panting
  • Unresponsiveness/Unwillingness to listen to any commands
  • Fever
  • Vomiting 
  • Warm skin and dark red gums 
  • Collapsing/Lethargy
  • Excessive drooling

Animals especially susceptible to heatstroke are those that are older in age, overweight, or that have shorter snouts like Persian cats, pugs, boxers, bulldogs, etc. 

Barbecues are a great way to socialize with friends and other pets during the summer months. Be sure your pet's tags and vaccines are up to date and that you keep insecticides and human food out of reach from your dog or cat. You'll also want to keep plenty of fresh water around for them to stay nice and hydrated. 

Feel like spoiling your dog or cat a little more? Why not try making them some yummy popsicles! Petfinder.com has an easy recipe - just freeze wet dog or cat food in plastic cups overnight. The next day, let it sit on the counter for about 5 minutes or until it starts to "sweat" then serve it to your dog or cat! It's a great way to give them a tasty treat and keep them hydrated! 

Have ideas of your own? Share them with us on Facebook and Twitter!

Guest post by: Sondra Davenport

Urban Paw is an innovative pet products company providing pets with the best sleep possible. From cat huts, cat cuddlers and cat houses to dog mattresses, dog huts and dog houses, Urban Paw offers long lasting pet beds and stylish pet beds for dogs and cats. Affordable pet beds designed for comfort and style, Urban Paw is dedicated to helping cat rescues and dog rescues raise funds and awareness for animals in need. 

Photo Credits:

June 01, 2016

What to do with Orphaned Kittens (pt 2)

If you missed our first blog on what to do if you find orphaned kittens, click here first to read part 1

What To Do Next – Determining their Age and Feeding Them

First things first, it’s important that you keep the kittens (and mom, if you have her) separated from your children and any family pets; the sooner you are able to get them to a vet for a check up, the better, however, it is still recommended to give mom (or the orphaned kittens) their own space for their own safety and a sense of security. Typically, a small spare bathroom or unused bathtub is the perfect place to set up shop.

Next, you need to establish a general idea of the kittens’ age.

  • A week or less: eyes are still closed, the ears will be almost flat against their head, they may still have a piece of their umbilical cord – very skinny and pink with minimal actual hair
  • 1-2 weeks old: some or all may have their eyes partially or fully open, no umbilical cord left, ears are still flat but not flush with their head; about the size of your hand or smaller, and sometimes with a little more fluff on their bodies
  • 3 weeks: all kittens’ eyes will be open, kittens will be fairly active, the ears have started standing upright more, and you may be able to see signs of teeth
  • 4-5 weeks: kittens’ eyes will no longer be a bright blue (unless that is breed specific) and they’ve begun to act like real kittens – interacting with one another, pouncing, running with more coordination, and can usually begin to eat gruel (wet food mixed with kitten formula or water). Kittens begin to show interest in the litterbox around this age (be sure to use non-clumping litter so that it does not clog their delicate digestive systems when their curiosity inevitably causes them to try eating the litter)
  • 6-7 weeks: kittens will begin acting very much like the kittens you are used to seeing and interacting with. It’s important to make sure any singletons or paired kittens (litters with only 1-2 kittens) are exposed to other animals and people so they learn proper socialization and manners
  • 8 weeks: kittens will no longer be nursing, are able to eat wet and dry kitten food, and are able to be adopted to forever homes

Once you have determined the kittens’ age, you can decide what they need to eat. NEVER GIVE KITTENS COWS MILK. Cows milk has zero nutritional value for kittens (and cats!) and will slowly starve the kittens to death and give them diarrhea, dehydrating them as well. If kittens have their mother, are nursing with no problems and are 4 weeks old or less, you do not need to worry about feeding them anything additional. 

When they begin to show interest in mom’s wet food, you may switch them to gruel. Gruel is a mixture of wet cat food and water. For more information on gruel feeding, you can watch this short but super helpful video created by Austin Pets Alive! here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFNcs3mCCUQ 

If the kittens are 4 weeks old or less, you will need to bottle-feed them every 2-3 hours. If pet or feed stores around you are closed when you find the kittens, you may use 100% goats milk as a fill-in until you are able to get to the store the next day to pick up the proper supplies. GOATS MILK ALONE WILL NOT SUSTAIN KITTENS – IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU USE KITTEN MILK REPLACEMENT FORMULA (KMR) AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Many pet stores, including Petsmart and Petco, have all the supplies and proper formula you will need. Be sure to follow the mixing and storage instructions on the formula. Once you begin the kittens on a formula (a very well trusted and widely used brand is “KMR”) it is important that you only feed them that one formula – do not mix or switch brands.

 Despite the adorable appeal, kittens should always be fed while lying on their stomachs, not on their backs, as they would were they nursing from their mother. A kitten drinking while turned upside down may aspirate (take liquid into their lungs) and suffocate rather easily. Kittens will need to be bottle-fed every 2-3 hours, even overnight, and syringe fed if they are having issues taking the bottle. It is important that kittens do not miss a feeding, as their systems are more delicate than you may think, and will fade fast. For a short, but extremely helpful tutorial on bottle feeding kittens, watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lifzi3oOVo4 (This video also gives information on how and where to keep the kittens and stimulate them to use the bathroom, as well ).

Once the kitten has finished eating, you will need to help them use the bathroom. Never use a dry paper towel, toilet paper, or anything similar. The best method is with unscented baby wipes. Use the wipe to rub their bottoms in circles until it’s clear that they have peed and sometimes pooped. Make sure you clean them off well, as any left over mess will cause a skin infection. Never bathe kittens, though they can get quite messy. Kittens are unable to regulate their own body temperature, so bathing them can send their bodies into shock quickly. 

You may also use these baby wipes to clean up any milk around their faces, paws, chest, etc. 

Finally – Keep Those Kitties Warm

As mentioned above, kittens are unable to regulate their own body heat until around 6-8 weeks of age. Kittens require a constant source of heat to keep their bodies functioning properly. If you have found kittens that feel cold to the touch, it’s urgent that you place them on a heat source immediately. If you do not have a heating pad or snuggle safe disc, you may use a variety of other methods. Heating up rice in a tube sock or filling a water bottle are good options. Always be sure to place the heat source under a blanket – NEVER PLACE A KITTEN DIRECTLY ON TOP OF OR AGAINST A HEAT SOURCE. This can burn the kitten or cause him to overheat.

Kittens that are cold will not eat; you will need to warm them up before you attempt to feed them. A cold kitten will not digest food properly, nor will he eat properly, increasing his chances of choking. It’s equally important to make sure the formula you provide him is body-heat temperature and not cold (this also prevents the formula from clumping).

Kittens need a source of heat 24/7, as well as space to move away from the heat at their own discretion. If you do not have a heating pad WITHOUT an auto-shut off feature, it is important that you check their heat source regularly. A snuggle safe disc will last approximately 1-2 hours. A rice sock will last about half an hour, and a heated water bottle can last anywhere from 20-60 minutes depending on size and quality.

What You Will Need

Taking care of kittens is a big commitment that requires a very specific list of supplies. For a full list of supplies, check out the Best Friends Animal Society’s Bottle Baby Kitten Foster Handbook: http://bestfriends.org/resources/kitten-foster-manual

The basics include:

  • Kitten Milk Replacement Formula (KMR)
  • Kitten baby bottles and extra nipples
  • A heating pad with NO auto shut-off feature or a snuggle safe disc (available on Amazon)
  • Multiple baby blankets (fleece also works well) 

Resources

Note: All photos used are from Best Friends Animal Society 

 

Guest Post by: Sondra Davenport, Neonatal Kitten Expert

 

Urban Paw is an innovative pet products company providing pets with the best sleep possible. From cat huts, cat cuddlers and cat houses to dog mattresses, dog huts and dog houses, Urban Paw offers long lasting pet beds and stylish pet beds for dogs and cats. Affordable pet beds designed for comfort and style, Urban Paw is dedicated to helping cat rescues and dog rescues raise funds and awareness for animals in need. 

May 18, 2016

What to Do with Orphaned Kittens (pt 1)

Did you know that there are actually five seasons every year? Winter, Spring, Summer, Fall, and KITTEN SEASON! That’s right, every year from March-September thousands of kittens are born to outdoor cats. If, for some reason, that mom cat can not or will not take care of her kittens, she will abandon them, leaving the kittens with very limited time unless somebody intervenes and cares for them in her place.

For some extremely in-depth information, check out these resources:

 

Found some kittens? Wait a Minute.

Finding kittens doesn’t necessarily mean that their mother has abandoned them; many times the mother is out looking for food or a new, safer shelter for her family, especially if the kittens are sleeping. It’s important to leave the kittens alone and wait 2-3 hours to see if the mother returns. Even finding one or two kittens by themselves may mean the mother is in the process of moving them to a new location and will come back to collect the remaining babies. Kittens have their best chance of survival when they are with their mother, and many shelters and rescues do not have the means or space to take in un-weaned kittens and will, unfortunately, euthanize them within 24 hours, so try your hardest to evaluate the situation before moving the little family.

If the mother returns and is friendly, the best thing to do is bring in momma with her babies and let her care for them until they are ready to be adopted. At that point you should get mom spayed and find her an adoptive home, as well.

If mom returns and is not friendly, it is still the best thing for the kittens to remain with her. To help her care for the babies, and to insure their best chance at survival, you can do a few things to help:

  • Provide a shelter for momma to house her babies
  • Provide dry AND wet food for mom 2-3 times a day (it’s important for nursing mothers to stay hydrated and well fed – wet food makes sure she is getting enough fat and liquid supplementation to help her produce milk)
  • Provide fresh water
  • Do not touch, move, or disturb mom or the kittens

Once the kittens are weaned and eating the wet or dry food, you can trap mom, get her spayed, then release her back where you trapped her. This is a method for feral cats called TNR (trap, neuter, release) that helps prevent feral cats from populating. You can find more information on TNR, as well as instructional videos and resources at http://bestfriends.org/resources/feral-cats-and-tnr

If the mother does not return you must decide what to do next. If you are going to try to care for these kittens, it’s important that you know what you’re jumping into. Caring for un-weaned kittens (kittens under 8 weeks old) is a round the clock job, just like with a newborn baby, and, depending on their age, kittens must be bottle-fed or syringe fed every 2-3 hours.

Be sure to check back for the remaining posts on orphaned kittens. If you're currently caring for orphaned kittens and need some help right now check out these resources:

 

Note: all photos used are from Best Friends Animal Society

 

Guest Post by: Sondra Davenport , neonatal kitten expert

 

Urban Paw is an innovative pet products company providing pets with the best sleep possible. From cat huts, cat cuddlers and cat houses to dog mattresses, dog huts and dog houses, Urban Paw offers long lasting pet beds and stylish pet beds for dogs and cats. Affordable pet beds designed for comfort and style, Urban Paw is dedicated to helping cat rescues and dog rescues raise funds and awareness for animals in need.

June 22, 2015

Are pet beds seasonal?

It has been widely considered that pets only need or use bedding during the cold weather months. Of course, we all want our loved ones warm and snuggly on those cold days and nights. The proper bedding should help keep their bodies’ warm, which will help alleviate aches and pains that come from cold weather. This is even more important if they spend most of their time outdoors.

But what about when the temps start to climb and we change our focus to keeping our pets cool and not overheating. In the southwest, average daily temperatures could reach into the triple digits! In the dog days of summer, do our dogs (and cats) still need a bed? So let’s take a look at a couple different scenarios and then you can decide what would be best for your furry friends.


Now let’s shifts gears from seasonal temps and take a look at some animal behaviors. Houses, huts and caves have always been used for cats. Our feline friends love hiding out in the most interesting places. Cat owners know this and often will provide their kitties with cute and fun hideaways for them to get into. Ever see a cat play hide and seek with a cardboard box? So it is safe to say, that no matter what the temp is, in or out, cats love houses and huts!

“Oh baby it’s hot outside!” It might be 96 degrees outside, but what is the temperature in your home? Or for the lucky ones who get to take their pets to work, the office is probably a cool 74 degrees. Many times we see office workers wearing sweaters indoors because they keep it very cool. So it’s safe to say if you need a sweater or throw to keep the chill out from the A/C, so does your pet. Even more so if they are short haired, very young or old. Providing them with a warm and comfy place to snuggle just makes sense.

Last but certainly not least, those darling little small breed pups. Anyone who has ever lived with a Chihuahua will tell you that they love to burrow. Yes indeed, forget sleeping on the bed, they will get right under the blankets! Or under the bed, behind the sofa, in the nightstand, just about anywhere they can hide out and relax. This behavior is not just reserved for Chihuahua’s either, most small breeds behave in the same way. When you are less than 15 lbs. it’s kind of hard to feel safe and secure in the big wide open. Because dogs are den dwellers by nature, it is in their den that they can truly relax and fall into a deep slumber. Providing your little ones with a soft and cozy hideout just might make their day and night!


Mary Bumatai

 

May 07, 2015

What Size Dog Bed?

 


One Size Does Not Fit All: Here are some tips to find out what size your pet will need.  Measure and weigh your pet to find the size right bed, house or hut. Please be aware that doing just one or the other may result in the wrong choice. Example would be a Whippet weighting in at 25 lbs. would have a totally different body dimension than a Corgi at the same weight.  Be aware, these are approximations.

For Beds: Measure your dog in in his sleeping position; from nose to the base of the tail. Then add approximately 6” to determine bed length or diameter. This ensures that your dog doesn’t feel cramped or as if falling off the bed.  

For Huts & Houses: The two most important dimensions are the height (H) and length (L). Find out how tall they are from their feet to the top of their shoulders, and how long from nose to tail. If your dog has a long tail, include some extra length for comfort. Once you have your dog’s height and length, add 2-4 inches to the height and the same to the length. These should be the minimum height and length measurements.  Give them plenty of comfort space, they need to be able to stand, turn around and get comfy. See our selection of houses and huts here.

Sleeping Style:. Does your dog stretch out or curl up when they sleep? Younger dogs tend to curl up more when they sleep because their bodies and spine are more flexible. Older dogs tend to stretch out.

Finally: Observe your dog’s sleeping habits before you choose your dog’s bed. Do they like to curl up in a ball or sprawl out? Do they always tuck themselves in a corner, or do they lie down in the middle of the room? Do they look for the most comfortable cushion they can find, or does your dog flop down anywhere, including the hardwood floor? If your dog likes to stretch out, you may want to consider buying a larger bed or mat.

When in Doubt:  Always get the larger size. A bit bigger won't hurt as long as it will fit in your room.  Look at the dimensions (not the size) and the weight load listed to double check that you are picking the right size. Again it is better to buy too big than too small. Returns are time-consuming and costly.

May 02, 2015

Better Sleep. Better Life.

Did you know that sleep can have a major impact on your dog’s behavior and health? According to Dog Behavior Psychologist, Lizi Angel, when dogs are sleep deprived, stress hormones will build up which can negatively impact the dog's behavior, creating symptoms like aggression. In contrast, during deep sleep, a dog’s body (as with any other mammal) releases melatonin, a neuro hormone, which is known to protect the body's cells and, strengthen the immune system.

So if sleep is so critical to your dog’s well-being, then choosing the right bed for him/her must be important too, right? Many pet parents don’t realize that there are very specific needs that some dogs have when it comes to getting a good night’s sleep. For example, smaller breeds, like Chihuahuas and Terriers, tend to prefer enclosed spaces with walls to give them a sense of shelter and protection. Without this they feel insecure and end up sleeping with one eye open. For these types of dogs, a bed like the Milo 2in1 Hut or the high-walled Luna OrthoComfort Cuddler would most suitable.

 

For medium to large breeds, it can vary widely. It really depends on the breed and your dog’s personality. Some prefer beds with no (or low) walls (like the Samson w AirLOFT) so that they can sprawl and stay cool. Others prefer a tighter space with walls to give them extra support (like the Teddy Cuddler). If you’re not sure what your dog prefers, just pay close attention to their behavioral habits and preferences. It will usually become very clear.

You can see Urban Paw’s complete line pet beds here.  Use promo code BetterSleepBetterLife and receive a 10% discount on your entire purchase.